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The Ed-Venture Lifestyle:

Left Braining it in the Mojave

 

Davidson is hot.

I should know he’s my husband, and he’s sweating into his teal kerchief. He’s been sitting in a v-wedge nylon seat staring at a Mojave Aster for the last hour, sketching with a Staedler pen on a block of smooth, stiff watercolor paper, to which he’ll add color later. Right now, he’s focusing on just how many composite flowers exist in each Aster bud—literally flower within flower in flower—and which details he’s going to draw.    

I’ve just hiked into Keystone Canyon, scouted for flowers for him, which is what I often do while he draws.  

Migrating west each year from Washington, DC, for a spring season in the desert, we’ve logged 40,000 miles, a dozen laps of the country, hit all the cities that once I only knew from rock and roll songs, ridden the back roads through America’s little towns.  After east coast living and big city driving, sojourning in the tiny town of Nipton, California, on the edge of the Mojave National Preserve, is a wonderful contraction. 

My husband, Donald Davidson, is a volunteer for the National Park Service. Even I volunteer sometimes—it’s part of our hyphenated lifestyle: self-employed, mortgage-free, child-less, bi-coastal, middle-aged ed-venturers. 

Nipton appears like a dark line in a vast basin and sits at an elevation of 3000 feet. We are at the southern terminus of the basin and range country so well defined by John McPhee.  There’s not much but open sky and land between us and the eleven miles of red-top—from the high iron-oxide content in the local stone once used in the tarmac—leading to Nipton. As we drive across the Ivanpah Valley, Donald pulls over, just so I can stand in the center of the road and turn in a circle to take in the 360 degree vista—a horizon of  mountains. I want to dance on the empty road in celebration of all this beauty we get to play in.  

The active Union Pacific railroad tracks turn Nipton Rd. (Route 164) into a crossroads.  Harry Reid, Majority Leader of the Senate, lives over the Crescent Pass towards Searchlight, as did famous silent film actress, Clara Bow at her Walking Box Ranch (named for the old moniker for the silent movie camera).

Hotel Nipton is shaded by a full wraparound porch, and dates to 1910.  More recent are the canvas-topped, swamp-cooled cabins that stand between the hotel and the idyllic pond that draws migratory birds, as well as natives, such as the distinctively marked broad-winged Starlings swooping at dusk across the surface of the water.  Pheobe’s nest in the corner of our rental ranch house and allow me to gawk at their featherless babies. From the hammock there’s an uninterrupted view of the New York Mountain range to the south and of the eroded volcanic cone of Castle Peak.   

Nothing impedes the forty-mile-wide sunset that hangs atop the string of ranges to the west, including the highest point in the East Mojave, Clark Mountain at 7929 feet. It’s a long slow, majestic dusk.

Standing in the Nipton Trading Post, my friend Barney Miller and I speak fondly of the old timber and juniper-branch corals, the Aero-Motor windmills—in this mining-ranch country that has morphed into a preserve.  Some say there are more Joshua Trees in the Mojave National Preserve than Joshua Tree National Park.  The gray granite casts a powerful shadow under the full moon, we agree. 

One person who knows everyone who lives, or used to live, on this piece of the Mojave, is Linda Darrow who with her long grey tresses is the mainstay of the Trading Post, and a desert denizin for over forty years. According to her, the trains are part of Nipton’s personality; I say that she is too. 

We bi-coastal temporary residents can’t shake the stigma of being east coasters. Westerners we chat up in the Oasis Café or outside the Trading Post feel “sorry for us,” and we don’t try to dissuade them of their limited notions about life in our nation’s capital, instead we engage them in conversation about their subculture lifestyle.

Dinnertime once or twice a week finds us at the Whistle Stop Oasis.  The swamp-cooled front porch is an ironic artistic venture that suggests the islands—where chef Bill Sarbello spent a dozen years in the restaurant business before taking over the café in 2004.  He’s decorated the porch with a wooden mermaid, fish and shells, model boats in all sorts of amusing displays, an aquarium-like mélange display, and a swing. Inside there’s a pool table, coffeehouse style couches, and a jukebox.

On the twenty by forty front porch, all talk stops when the trains go by; it’s a kind of Zen-like experience that lasts for fifteen seconds or half-a-minute, depending whether the trains are going uphill or down. The pervasive and percussive sound and sight of the trains becomes a sort of companion out here where life is lived more alone.

 Hidden discretely in the northwest corner of the Preserve, just off I-15, is the Desert Studies Center which hosts adult-ed weekend classes in the natural sciences under the auspices of California State University and others regional institutions.  At elevation 930 feet, it’s a literal low point in the Preserve.

Rob Fulton, the Center’s onsite manager, joins us in the alfresco dinner in the stone alcove.  The figurative backbone of the facility, Rob also keeps the field station functioning off the grid.  It’s amazing to be part of such an eco-experience at a green facility that can handle nearly 90 people operating, substantially, under solar power and wind energy. 

While my husband teaches, I take one of the workshops that begin Friday evening with a hors d’oeuvre social followed by a visual lecture that introduces what our class will see first hand the next day. Fascinating facts fly at me in the dark cavernous bunker of a lecture room.  My brain operates at the boundaries of all I don't know about the Mojave Desert: the shifting sands of the Kelso Dunes (what minerals are these many-hued grain?)…the Granite Mountain that glows in the moon light (why is the rock rounded?)…the flora that face south (that’s related to rainfall, right?)… the burrowing fauna (the Mojave tortoise hibernates?).  Every fact leads to a new question.

Another weekend, Donald’s botanical illustrating class meets up on their second night with the desert poetry class I’m taking.  We share our creations: pictures and poems. One woman has driven from Denver, another flown in from Albuquerque. I’m nervous as I read my first sonnet aloud to the assembled circle.

After such a stimulating day, the firm bed has a special embrace and the cool clean white parged walls can feel like a stone monk’s cell.  The clanging of the breakfast bell finds me easing my way toward consciousness, but, quickly, I rise, knowing fresh cinnamon buns, eggs, fruit salad, and affable Chef Eric awaits twenty yards down an earthen Sunrise Blvd—Eric whose fine banjo playing can waft on the air when he steps back from his pots, pans and potatoes.

When class ended, most students raced off. I lingered on the swings facing the pond, contemplating the view of mud hens floating on the surface above endemic chubs.  I sweep our monk-like room, pack the linens all students must bring, and take a shower in the empty bathhouse. I’m not in any hurry to leave this ancient oasis that makes it easy to soak up some science. 

My Mojave days are rejuvenating my relationship with the natural world, helping me find new dimensions in an inner and outer landscape.  I’m vacationing on the left side of my brain. The dream and practice of an engagement with nature began so long ago. I graduated from high school and bought an expensive sleeping bag and backpack, but never quite made it to the outback until much later. It took the desert of middle-age to get me sampling wilderness regularly, seeking a trail through that proverbial land.  I'm not a natural at science, but I don't have to be to enhance my love of nature with vacations in the desert, where my petty concerns are dwarfed by the topography, where giving back and fun are, sometimes, seamless.

   “This desert can rock with flower power,” says Donald to the folks who stop to ask for directions to the nearest gas station.

The day grows hotter as I wait for him to finish coloring in his inked outline of a Sacred Datura that grows in the disturbed soil roadside.  Once his watercolor kit is safely stowed, he indulges in watering a Desert Marigold and then turns the bottle over his own head. “Ahhh…” he cries out.  I take the bottle and do the same, wetting my hat and the back of my shirt. 

The pleasure of the desert has always been a study of contrasts, and for us, the startling splash of water cools our skin with evaporation as we stare with awe at the desert scenery engraved by sun and shadow.

MOJAVE WINTER 

 

Red bud of spring, wind-swept, splendid green thing.  

Winter departs across cottonwood trees.     

The winds have names that fly and swirl on wings.   

I walk and wait, moving my chi: joint, knees.   

 

The slash of sun across the face of sky,

Rare earth, fossil water beneath desert.    

Falling like rain on feet, she saw life’s lie,    

Muscle made mind to form, lifting sight, bound.   

 

Wild fire burnt brown the Joshua and Yucca;   

Disturbed ash earth birthing without a sound.   

There snow, here dry shallow, range high, sand bowed.   

 

Terra cotta the sky, sunset doth cry,     

But morn has brought me here the day recrowned  

The mackerel sky woke silent, spoke loud.   

 

 

 

By Rosie Dempsey

DESERT PYRE

 

Air stands astride pillars of eucalyptus, roadbed

Trains blast time and clang, a puddle of cells collect

In my arm creases, their constraint rippled in heat.

 

Into the pond flies a single kingfisher, wind visitor

Migrators, he and I, to this berm of manmade opportunity

We hunt moments as day declines, building a pyre.

 

Thumbprints collect on the desert, you and I like bees

Faithful under a microscope, burning in refraction,

My spirit polishes, the patina of destiny stains.

 

 

 

By Rosie Dempsey

DESERT RETURN

 

Desert Return

Rosie Dempsey

 

When her husband told Marco, I knew my wife would fall in love with you, Gina was astonished.  She figured Charles spoke without thinking. That was last spring, the three of them around Marco’s dining table at a game of cards. He went right on playing his hand as though nothing had been said.  Gina and Charles were temporarily living in a house down the dusty road from his, and soon after they left.

        These words still play in Gina's head when they return the following spring on another contract with the BLM. This year, the other staff houses are full and they are assigned to bunk in Marco’s spare room for their week stay.  She knocks on the screen door of the pre-fab adobe ranch house, her smile a mask of indifference.

“Come on in,” he shouts. She follows his voice.

“Great to see you,” she says, standing as close to him as she dares. His lean muscularity and grin are unchanged. 

“Here’s your room,” he says, and throws a pillow on a spare bed that fills the space where boxes sat last year.   Gone are the long lengths of climbing rope that looped over pegs and covered a whole wall.  Now, the room is stripped, ordinary.

At dusk, Marco emerges from his bedroom on the other side of the house and stands shirtless before the stereo system.  His head is bare stubble, his arms and chest brushed with brown hair.  

“Here’s a hot new band,” he says.

She stays behind the kitchen counter that elbows out and says, “I thought I’d make us all dinner.”

Charles and Marco sit at either end of the table and discuss the basin and range geology that surrounds them.

        “So, how long you two been married?” he says. 

        “Twenty years,” she says, smiling. She feels eroded like the stone canyons they hike—weathered, carved away, but less beautiful not more. Once it was enough to be married to a good man, to be absorbed by her job in a research lab.  But, after nine years, she was riffed from her federally funded position during a downturn in the economy.  And during all those years wearing a white lab coat, the babies would not stay, painfully dripping out of her in deep red clots like failed experiments.  After that, Charles had said, a rest, a good long rest is what you need.  

        He wins contracts that take them far from Denver to spend months in remote desert locals, often in the Mojave. She hikes and counts rare plants as he does. Out on the desert, her eyes trained on the ground, she waits to discover what lies on the other side of a good rest.

        After two long days helping Charles in the field on the inventory update, she stays back at the house. With both men gone, she stares into the bathroom mirror. She sees an average woman with dull brown hair pulled back in a ponytail and tanned skin.  Average is a horrible word, she thinks as she stares at the dark rings beneath her eyes.  Still, she looks younger than her age.  That has been tougher to achieve, let alone feel, since hitting forty and losing her job.  Part of her never wants to go back to Denver. She wants to go on sliding into Charles’s arms each night in this unfamiliar bedroom, and hear Marco walk the house like a tomcat. She wants to ask him to taste the dish she is preparing when he returns from his daily run, to listen to his CDs, to hear him say, Great meal each night. 

        When the three of them ride into town for groceries, Marco drives his pickup fast and haphazardly on the empty road that slices through the stone-sculpted landscape.  They are jammed side-by-side on the bench seat, and she relishes him there next to her. Under the late sun, the roadside is spotted with globemallows and prickly poppy. Marco takes the turns fast and wide and passes a lumbering tour bus with nonchalance.  Her husband gives her a look she reads to mean: You’d never let me drive like this without a royal fuss. He is right, and she is surprised not to be afraid.  She feels strangely liberated, as if cavalier driving were what had been missing from her life. 

       “I’m thirsty,” Marco says.

        She hands him the water bottle she carries everywhere.

        “You don’t mind?” he says.

        “No, go ahead,” she says.  He looks at her as he holds it up to his mouth. He gives it back, and she places her lips where his just were and drinks before passing the water to her husband.

“I have some errands,” says Marco when they reach town. 

“Sure,” she says. 

He hands her a short list and a twenty in the grocery lot. The store is shockingly cold and offers many specialty foods that cater to the European tourists who flock to the parks in the region.  They stock fresh cheeses, heavy breads, pickled ginger, and seaweed.  She and Charles select food for the long drive home as well as treats for their last dinners with Marco.

Heading back to the truck, she sees Marco talking to a woman.  A band of her supple belly is bare. She knows his reputation as a seducer of the young women who do a season of environmental work at the park. Last year’s housemates gossiped about him.

“Who was that?” Gina says as the young woman walks away.

“A friend,” Marco says.

“Cute friend,” says Charles, and smiles at his wife.

Charles and Marco are animatedly discussing water evaporation as they stare in the direction of the receding woman. She sits amidst their laughter.  She notices that the men have tied bandanas on their heads, pirate-style. She props her legs on the dash, where they look sleeker.  

Marco turns onto the highway, and pops in more music-- another band she has never heard before.  Their desert return is honey-colored by the waning sun. They pass through towering limestone formations and slowly climb the road. The moon grazes the edge of the cliff. There is not a building in sight until they turn down the dusty road towards the housing.  The truck unloaded, they sit at the table eating the Nutella spread and fresh strawberries that were on Marco’s list. He opens the windows and breeze courses through the house. He licks a spoonful of hazelnut chocolate and then hands her a fresh dip with a grin.

Charles looks up from the editorial page of The LA Times.  “One more for me,” he says. She wipes the spoon across her tongue with her eyes on Marco before scooping more onto a strawberry for her husband.    

That night, she poses seductively for Charles as she removes her clothes.  Neither acknowledges that the statistics on their sex life have dramatically improved since arriving: three times in five days, three times above par.

“You be careful, now,” he says grabbing at her as if he has lion’s paws.

She moves just out of reach. It is an old game they have not played in a while.

“Don’t get in over your head, except with me,” he says, his face close to hers, his hands gripping her soft flesh.  

The next evening, Charles persuades Marco to show his slides.  So far, he has been reticent about the details of his job as a ranger. He hangs a large sheet on the paneled living room wall, and sets up the projector. They sit in the dark on the couch. In the slides he is twenty-five instead of thirty-five, and scaling vertical walls of blond and chocolate stone. He hangs from colored cords tied through pitons driven into rock a thousand feet up.  Then, a royal blue parka fills the screen, brilliant against the dusty soil. “We have to document every recovery,” Marco says.  She recognizes the soft curves of the Granite Mountains.

“A recovery versus a rescue?” Charles says.

“You don’t rescue the dead,” he says flatly.

Only then does she recognize the blood on the rock near the facedown climber.  Marco keeps clicking, wordlessly.  The body, bagged, is carried away. 

“I did the report,” he says. “He was a German tourist.  Lost his footing. A hiker saw him.” 

She imagines herself stranded on an outcrop, her ankle twisted, Marco finding her, and the clutch of intimacy that bonds the rescued with the rescuer.  In the dark, Gina sits frozen on the couch. All she can hear is the whirling fan of the slide projector cooling the bulb, and Marco walking away, the slide show over.

On their last full day, the afternoon sky is strangely clouded.  Around five they lie down for a nap. Her husband will do all the driving so she is glad he falls asleep immediately.  She lies quietly and holds her own hand. No matter how much moisturizer she slathers on daily, these months in the desert, moving from one location to the next, like a pilgrimage, have crackled her skin and made her hands look like an old woman’s. Well after eight o’clock, with her husband still snoring beside her, Marco has not returned and she is disappointed. When the front door clicks, she rises.

“Electricity’s off,” she says. He hangs up his gear.

“You still leaving tomorrow?” he says from somewhere inside his room.  “There’s weather expected where you’re heading.” 

He walks out with his chest bare, as usual, and locates candles, setting them around on plates and bowls.  He has promised to show her how to make sushi.  She gets out the cold cooked rice they had made the night before.  They work side by side their hips against the counter. Her hands reach and scoop globs of the sticky rice onto the paper-thin sheet of nori, following his lead. He slices into slivers the fresh carrots, scallions, and smoked trout, then presses a combination into the center.  She rolls the tube of seaweed and seals it with a bead of wetness, just as he does.  The fat roll of sushi lays in her palm.

        “You need a really good edge,” Marco says as he slides the blade along a sharpening stone. He takes the roll from her and slices it.  They fill the platter with the wedges of bound rice.  She puts out the special condiments—pickled ginger and wasabi, and pours water into three glasses. 

        “Dinner’s ready,” she sings out to Charles, who is up and coming out of the bathroom. 

        “Great, I’m starving,” he says.

        Marco sets down a bottle of Sambucca on the table and pours his water onto a potted cactus. Anise flavors the air as he drinks.  The storm gusts loudly as they dip sushi into individual bowls of soy mixed with the lime green hot paste.  Gina loves the taste of the pink ginger.

        “Here’s to you, buddy. Thanks for your hospitality.”  Charles raises his glass of water. “You’re always welcome at our place.”

        “Me cross the continental divide?” Marco says with surprise. “Not if I can help it, but thanks.” He is on his third glass of Sambucca when suddenly lights come back on and the appliances click to life, humming.

        “It’s time for the Carnavál CD,” Marco bellows.  He flips the light switches off.

        “Dance?” her husband says, but does not rise to join her.  She wills herself to relax as she holds two candles set in shallow bowls, raising and lowering them in a seesaw motion.  “Lovely,” he shouts over the pounding music. He drums on the tabletop in rhythm.  When Marco and Charles join in, their shadows play on the paneled walls like animals at a nocturnal watering hole, gathering while the world sleeps. When Marco lurches off balance, he catches himself against the wall and sets his candle down. 

The rain finally pelts the windows, and when it thunders, Charles rests, his outline framed by the red of the leather chair. She had expected dry rain, but this is the real thing. Marco stands steady in the center of the rug as the next song begins.  Her free hand reaches out to him, and his arms go over his head in a diver’s pose.  The soft inside of her arm, fingertips to bicep, slides against his torso as she glides around him in a circle. Her outside arm is extended like a wing, lit by the beacon of candle. When the CD ends, she peels herself away and collapses dizzy on the couch.

Now the thumping is her heart not the wind.  She looks for Charles who is gone.  In the silence, Marco saunters off. She hears the front door creak and sees Charles standing there. The air outside is quiet and clear.  He turns to her.

“You all right, Honey?” He stands behind the couch kneading her shoulders.

“Hmmm,” she says.

“It’s getting late,” he says.  He turns on the overhead and begins to clear the dishes.  She is desperately thirsty from the salty food and wet with sweat. She looks for her water.

“Oh, my, gosh,” she exclaims.  Marco emerges from his room.  She points. The spots splatter the rug and go up the wall onto the large sheet that held the images of the dead climber last night.  She squats and rubs the weave of the loop carpet. The wax is deeply embedded.  “Oh, Marco,” she says, scraping with her nail, “It’s going to be so difficult to get this out.”

“Don’t,” he says.  “Leave it.  I like it.”

She smiles with satisfaction that Marco will see these marks long after she is gone.  

 “It’s eleven,” Charles says. 

“The night is still young,” says Marco.

“We leave at dawn,” Charles says.  “We have a long day ahead of us.”

“I told you, precip’ expected where you’re heading.  Believe me, man,” he says drunkenly and turns away. 

Charles walks down the hall. She looks at Marco’s back, then follows her husband to their bedroom, and falls asleep in spite of hearing Marco doing chin ups on the bar wedged in the hallway.  His small grunts remind her of the possums of her childhood who wandered through their yard in the night. 

In the soft light she waves at Marco’s solitary figure.  He stands there in a bathrobe, coffee cup in hand, seemingly indifferent to their departure. Their wheels churn dust into the air as they pull away.  “You had a really good time,” her husband says as he drives them away.  She stares out the window at the curves and plains of endless desert.   

Near dusk she smells the wet in the air as the highway climbs the mountains under a muted sky. The forest greenery is a wonderful shock. 

“I want things to be different between us,” she says.

“I know,” he says. “It’ll happen, be patient.”

She considers whether she might work her way back into animal biology, wolves or pupfish, a field research job? A few flakes start to fall.  It’s coming down heavily. Charles leans forward as if to increase his visibility.  She calls out their nearness to other cars and when trucks are coming up fast from behind, telling him when to move right or left.  They pass a vehicle that has gone off into a ditch.

“It’s more dangerous to stop than it is to drive on,” he says.

They are entombed. At the very center of their existence are her husband’s hands gripping the wheel, and on the edge of their vision, the highway he must navigate with few clues to its boundaries.  The sound of their vehicle becomes eerily loud as the snow muffles everything else. She hums, barely audibly. 

She keeps looking out the front and back windows, scanning the blur, then focusing on the familiar profile of her husband’s face.  After fifteen minutes that pass like an hour, the snow thins. Finally, visibility returns.

Gina reaches across and rubs Charles’ neck.  It will be a relief to make it to a motel, to climb between sheets with him, his body heat warming her, to be alone, together. They can recover from the tension of driving blind and settle back into one another.  “Let’s not go too far,” she says.  He breathes deeply as her fingers press into his taut muscles.  The snow disappears from the ground as they descend the mountain.

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